Dog Cooling Jackets

What you do not know about dog cooling products places your pet at risk for heat difficulties and discomfort. Via thermoregulating technology, dog cooling jackets and cooling pet beds aid in your dog’s safety and comfort, and are available at very reasonable cost. Dog cooling beds, jackets and other technologically advanced products protect your pet from heat exhaustion and heat stroke.

Your dog has a fur coat. Summer days can be annoyingly uncomfortable for your canine.

People do not realize how many dogs and pets suffer the ravages of heat stroke, including brain damage and death. Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors are most at risk and that includes light activity or doing nothing. Thermoregulating technology in dog cooling jackets or a cooling dog bed surface can have far reaching benefits for the health and well being of your canine. Leaving your dog outdoors without shelter exposes your dog to heat stroke, and is just as dangerous as leaving it inside a hot car. But, your dog will enjoy longer outdoor time and activity in greater comfort with a cooling jacket. The Cool K-9 dog cooling jacket provides much needed protection on hot days against dangerous health issues associated with overheating. Be sure your dog is not left in a cage in the hot sun, on a chain in the backyard, or outdoors in a run without sufficient shade or air circulation.

Brachiocephalic (pug-nosed) dogs are more susceptible to heat discomfort and heat stroke because their nasal passages are smaller and more difficult for them to circulate sufficient air for cooling. Overweight dogs are also more prone to heat stroke because extra layers of fat act as insulation, trapping heat in their bodies, restricting breathing.
Age is a factor in a dog’s tendency to overheat and suffer heat stroke. Puppies may not have fully developed temperature regulating systems, and older dogs’ organ systems may not function at peak levels. All reasons to take advantage of the wonderful dog cooling jacket and bed technology.

The dog cooling jacket is a powerful tool against the dangers of heat stroke.

The Cool K-9 dog cooling jacket works through water-absorbing, cross-linked polymers sewn into supplex fabric. Just soak the dog cooling jacket thoroughly with water. After submerging the dog cooling jacket for just a few minutes, high technology crystals absorb enough to keep the evaporative process going for up to several days. Even when fully soaked, the dog cooling jacket holds the water, and will help your pet fight off heat exhaustion and stay comfortable on hot days, while keeping your dog cool and dry. This wonderful technologically advanced dog cooling jacket can be charged over and over. When the season turns to winter, the dry jacket becomes an insulating jacket, shielding against cold.

The dog cooling jacket acts as a perspiration system by absorbing heat from your canine’s body, then allows the heat to dissipate into the air by the natural evaporative process.

Instead of just panting and sweating through the pads of its paws, your dog is now able to remove the heat from its body faster and more efficiently than without a dog cooling jacket. The Cool K-9 dog cooling jacket is an all-year-round safety device, applauded by dog lovers, hikers, sportsman walkers, runners, and hunters, who want protection for their dogs. The Cool K-9 is also reflective, to make your dog more visible at night. Check out the new, revolutionary dog cooling jacket today. Your dog will love you for it.

Picking A Dog Breed By Group

Know The Background And You Will Understand The Behavior

Dog breeds separate into seven types called dog Groups. The dog breeds in each group share a similar instinct or life purpose. Dogs were bred for specific abilities and tendencies, however breeding over time diluted some instinctive traits. Nevertheless, before choosing a particular dog breed, knowing the background or Group of the breed will help you understand the dog’s behavior.

According to the American Kennel Club, a breed is “a line of dogs with similar ancestry”. Many original occupational traits are genetic. We rarely require our dogs to function in their ancient jobs, but we can provide activity that recognizes their heritage or dog breed Group, and satisfies instinctive interest, thus eliminating many behavioral problems.

The Sporting dog breed Group, Pointers, Retrievers, Spaniels and Setters, hunt by sight and smell, by ground or air. Setters and Spaniels are called “couchers” because they “couch,” or creep slowly along scenting birds. These dogs helped man sustain himself by scaring birds out of hiding (flushing) and retrieving those hunted. Among Spaniels (meaning “of Spain”) are Springers and Cockers. Springers hunt by “springing” or flushing game. 600 years ago, Cockers flushed woodcock in England. 400 years ago, nets (versus guns) were used in the hunt. Setters were trained to point the birds, then crouch or “set” to the ground while the net was thrown over the quarry.

Retrievers perform by flushing out game and retrieving it. Retrievers were bred to be hearty, strong dogs that could withstand freezing water and push through heavy vegetation on the hunt.

The Sporting dog breed Group is athletic and high-energy. A game of “throw the ball” can continue for hours. The dog breeds of this Group are steady in temperament, easygoing, friendly and like children. Born with a fetching instinct, they thrive on an active lifestyle. When included, they are happy-go-lucky and accepting of life’s chaos. The Sporting dogs are patient family pets, but long hours of isolation and lack of exercise fuels anxiety.

The Toy breeds were bred as companions or pets. No firm standard makes a dog a Toy. Dogs of equal size can be in different dog breed groups. The upper size for a Toy is 12 inches to the withers. The Toy breeds were bred down from larger dogs. Often the only thing small is their size. They are genetically programmed with traits of their larger ancestors — “big guy mentality” in a small Toy package.

The Terrier dog breed Group (Latin terra meaning of the earth) was bred to hunt by digging out or entering burrows (vermin hunters), or fight other animals for sport (fighters). Terriers are spirited, spunky, and enjoy human companionship. Terriers must be confined or leashed to prevent roaming or hunting. Extensive socialization ensures a friendly attitude toward other dogs and pets.

The Working Group is the larger dog breeds, task-oriented to be haulers and guards. While large, the Working Group dog breeds can adapt to any lifestyle with ease if you maintain their schedule, train them well and exercise them sufficiently. While country living is optimal, Working dogs adapt to apartment dwelling when given daily walks. The five types in the Working dog breed Group are:

  • Sled dogs (e.g. Alaskan Malamute);
  • Draft dogs (e.g. Bernese Mountain dog);
  • Guard dogs (e.g. Akita);
  • Personal Protection dogs (e.g. Doberman Pinscher);
  • Rescue/Water dogs (e.g. Saint Bernard).

The Hounds hunt by sight (coursers) such as the Afghan, or by scent (trackers) such as the Bloodhound. The coursers depend on sharp eyes and fast legs to get their game. The fastest of all dogs belong in this dog breed group. The Saluki, a courser Hound, is considered the oldest and purest of all breeds. Able to run up to 40 miles per hour, the Saluki coursed gazelle in ancient Egypt. The Hounds’ pack mentality makes them extremely suitable for family life, and independent enough to entertain themselves. Coursers must be socialized early to household pets or they may confuse them for “lunch” as they race across your floors.

The Herding dog breed Group developed during the agricultural age when herding skills were prized by sheep and cattle herders. Herding dogs must be given an outlet for their impulses or they develop obsessive, patterned behaviors. Properly trained and exercised, these dogs are deeply loyal. When neutered, the males are not prone to roaming. The Herding Group includes Sheep Herders (e.g. Border Collie), and Cattle/Sheep Driving Dogs (e.g. Australian Cattle Dog).

Ultimate Guide to Adopting From A Dog Breeder

Some People Put More Effort Into Buying A Used Car Than How They Acquire Their Dog!


Evaluating and choosing a good dog breeder may take many visits to various breeders for the right match. Be patient. Dog breeders show their canines, so a good place to meet them is at a local dog show.

You will find good dog breeders and not-so-good ones.

A dog breeder raises, sells and often shows dogs of a specific breed, or maybe a few breeds. Top breeders raise dogs with good genetic lines, temperament test every puppy, and test each parent to help ensure against congenital defects.

The knowledge and skill of a good dog breeder has tremendous bearing on how the puppy turns out.

Unknowledgeable and amateur breeders are the source of most health and temperament problems affecting purebred dogs. Good breeders breed only when they have a list of buyers to adopt the dogs. Beware of breeders who create puppies and then worry about how to dispense them.

Genetic defects.

A dog breeder who tests prospective parents for specific disorders before breeding has the breed’s best interests at heart.
Sire and dam should have a hip clearance from OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) or PennHip (University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program) with documenting certificates.
Sire and dam should have current eye clearances from CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation). This must be re-done every year and should be certified.
A good dog breeder will screen for hypothyroidism, Von Willebrand’s disease (disorder affecting ability to clot), epilepsy, and cardiac conditions.
When a dog breeder says they are breeding for temperament, you are on the right path in choosing a good breeder. When evaluating a breeder, this attribute trumps all others. A temperament test is a series of handling exercises performed at 7 weeks or older, to help assess the personality and eventual adult demeanor.

A good breeder will be eager to answer your questions fully.

You want as much information from the dog breeder as possible, to evaluate the breeder and the dogs.
Ask for a certificate of vaccination stating what vaccines the puppy received, when and by whom. If the puppy was de-wormed, what drug was used and when? If not, was a fecal exam done?
If the dam is bred too often it may indicate that profit is the primary motive for breeding. The rule of thumb is 5 generations should separate one relative from another.
Does the breeder provide a 3-5 generation pedigree, a contract to sign, copies of all clearances, and a guarantee? Will the breeder take the dog back at any time, for any reason, if you cannot keep it? This is a test question to know if the breeder is responsible and cares about his dogs or just in it for the profit. Most will offer “health guarantees” for 2 years. A good guarantee states that if your puppy is ill with a genetic illness (e.g. hip or elbow dysplasia, cataracts), the breeder will refund your money or provide another puppy from the next litter, and you keep your puppy as well if you want.
The breeder should provide information about feeding, training, housebreaking, grooming, and exercise.
A responsible breeder insists the puppy has limited registration and a mandatory spay/neuter contract.
Allow time to interact with the puppy away from distractions. 10-15 minutes should be allotted to each member of the family.

Things to observe in choosing a good dog breeder:

Inspect the coat, eyes, ears, dewclaws, tail. No discharge from the eyes or nose? No loose stools? No foul-smelling ears? Coats full and clean without any bald spots? Skin free of red splotches?
No fleas? No coughing, sneezing, wheezing? Plenty of energy when awake?
The litter should appear healthy and well-fed. Consider the cleanliness of surroundings – look around for feces not removed.
Puppies should be raised in a home – not a barn or backyard. Puppies need exposure to gentle handling, human contact, a variety of noises and experiences. They should not be removed from the dam or litter mates before 7 weeks, which could create a variety of behavioral problems.
Can you meet the sire and dam? How do they behave? Will the breeder provide references of previous buyers?
A good dog breeder will ASK questions, wanting to know your family’s lifestyle, to ensure the dog adoption is compatible and the prospective guardians are committed to the match.

Dog And Cat Arthritis Information: Causes, Prevention And Treatment

When it comes to your companion dog or cat, information about the causes, prevention and treatment of arthritis is vital. Arthritis is a common degenerative joint problem, and joint stiffness will affect many of our dogs and cats as they enter their senior years. There are no miracle cures, but much can be done to prevent and avoid damaging effects.

25-30% of our canine and feline family members will show the effects of osteoarthritis.

You may first notice the appearance of stiffness when your dog or cat rises from a sitting or lying position, or from squatting to eliminate. They may hesitate to get up onto a favorite chair, or exhibit slowness in climbing stairs. Whimpering, growling or snapping when touched, loss of appetite, lagging behind or tiring easily during walks, limping after strenuous exercise – all are signs of discomfort or painful joints.

The positive news is there are steps that can be taken to help avoid and successfully treat cartilage and joint disorders.

Osteoarthritis in dogs and cats is caused by the deterioration of the cartilage surrounding the joint and progresses slowly over a long period of time. Eventually, the deterioration leads to a condition where the bones that connect for joint movement begin to rub against each other, causing pain and discomfort. These conditions can be brought on by an earlier injury or genetic disease such as hip dysphasia, more common in the large dog breeds. There are various ways to treat arthritic and stiff joint conditions, and the associated soreness, in our dogs and cats.

NSAIDs provide pain relief but do not help repair damaged tissue or prevent further deterioration.

One solution is NSAIDs, which stands for non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, such as Rimadyl (active ingredient carprofen), Deramaxx (active ingredient deracoxib), and EctoGesic (active ingredient etodolac). Feldene (active ingredient piroxicam) is also prescribed to control pain for dogs with cancer. Currently there are no approved NSAIDs for cats in the United States and any NSAID use for cats must be carefully done under a veterinarian’s supervision. In 1998, Rimadyl headed the list of drugs reported to cause adverse reaction in dogs — 43.4% of all adverse drug reactions were due to Rimadyl. The most common adverse effects are stomach ulcers, and kidney, liver, and blood disorders. While NSAIDs can be safely used for short-term pain relief in most pets, their use should be reserved until all other preferred natural and safer options for long-term relief have been exhausted and the pet is showing signs of suffering.

A high quality glucosamine/chrondroitin sulfate supplement is a good defense and treatment for arthritis in dogs and cats.

Glucosamine/chrondroitin sulfate stimulates the production of important proteins found in cartilage and proteoglycans, which are the water-holding molecules that cartilage is comprised of; helps reduce pain; and, over time, rehabilitates damaged cartilage. A typical daily dose would be at least 1000 mg per 50 pounds of body weight. Preventing joint deterioration is a preferable course of action to take to ease the effect of aging, so start your pet on glucosamine before 8 years for larger breeds and before 10 for smaller breeds, before symptoms are present. You will possibly avoid a great deal of discomfort before it begins.

MSM (methysulfonylmethane): Another supplement to maintain healthy connective tissue that is a naturally occurring sulfur compound found in the cells of the body. It helps prevent arthritis in dogs and cats and can assist in reducing inflammation and swelling that accompany arthritis, disease and injuries.

Diet is a very important factor: A high quality diet is the foundation for good health and avoiding many diseases, including arthritis, for your dog or cat. (Please see — What’s Really In Dog Food — Raw Dog Food — Raw Pet Food.) If you are uncomfortable with a raw food diet, consider a combination of home-prepared cooked food, very high quality canned or dehydrated food, and very high quality kibble. If your pet has any environmental or food allergies, these must be addressed since they contribute to the degenerative conditions you are trying to prevent.

Weight control: An overweight dog or cat will accelerate the arthritic disease process and symptoms. Gentle exercise is helpful for any pet; swimming, if possible, is ideal.

Digestive enzymes & probiotics: Essential in aiding digestion and nutrient assimilation. They help avoid inflammatory conditions such as arthritis, allergies and degenerative conditions by maintaining a healthy gastrointestinal system in our dogs and cats. Digestive enzymes and probiotics are beneficial for all pets.

Essential fatty acid supplements: Preferably with fish oil will help reduce inflammation, and aid in the treatment of joint problems and allergies.

High potency antioxidants: Inflammation of arthritic joints contributes to the oxidation activity of free radicals that are damaging to the cells of the body and can increase the risk of cancer. Please see our page on antioxidants.

Acupuncture: Dramatic improvement is possible for arthritic dogs and cats with regular treatments.

Dog Agility Training and Equipment Reviews

Loosely modeled on equestrian jumping competition, the sport of dog agility as we know it today is one of the most popular canine activities in the world. Dog agility is a sport where the dog handler is given a time period to direct a dog off-leash through an obstacle course in a race against the clock.

The dog agility course made its debut at the world famous Crufts Dog Show in England, held on 2-10-78. It was created to entertain the people surrounding the main competition ring between the obedience championship and the judging of the show dogs called conformation. The dogs were costumed in team track suits and the attending crowd loved the spectacle and performance. The success of dog agility training began on that day.

John Varley and Peter Meanwell – “founding fathers”

John Varley, a member of the 1978 Crufts Organizing Committee, had an interest in dogs as well as horses. This combination of interests was likely the inspiration behind what we now know as dog agility. He and Peter Meanwell together planned and masterminded the very first agility demonstration at the 1978 Crufts Dog Show, and are also responsible for the majority of the rules for the sport as well as the concepts that are still a part of dog agility training as we know it today.

The criteria for their entertainment concept was it had to be fun, not endanger the dogs, and had to have a strong spectator appeal. Agility training became a big hit, and the sport developed a strong following from that point forward.
By the end of 1979, agility was a featured highlight at the internationally renowned English Horse Show Olympia. It is now almost 3 decades later and Olympia is still seen to be the highest achievement a dog/handler team in England can achieve. The 1980 Crufts Dogs Show marked the formal introduction of what is titled the English Kennel Club Agility Test Regulations. At that 1980 show, Peter Meanwell was the Judge and the first person to interpret the new Regulations.

There are several national organizations for dog agility in the United States that sanction trials held by local dog training clubs. Trials are based on international rules and call for the highest level of agility from the dogs in participation in terms of speed and their ability to perform the obstacle course.

Obstacles used in agility have been designed for safety

All obstacles used in agility have been designed for safety so the dog should not experience injury. Obstacles that the dog is expected to physically scale have “contact” zones painted on the equipment to enforce safe training techniques in that the handlers know the dogs will be faulted unless one or more paws are in the contact zones when ascending or descending these contact obstacles.

The handlers direct their dogs around obstacles arranged in various course configurations in a sequence that has been predetermined by the judge. At the entry level competition, courses contain few complicated tasks and call for less actual agility (by using smaller obstacles and lower jump heights) and focus more on the handling aspects of the game to allow a dog to display it can competently perform the tasks the equipment is requiring it to navigate within a reasonable amount of time.

As the dog and handler develop into higher levels of attainable difficulty, the courses increase in complexity requiring split-second coordination and timing between the handler and dog to accomplish the course within the “Standard Course Time” (SCT) established by the judge.

Dogs only compete against dogs of similar height at the withers within the jump height divisions. The dog with the lowest number of faults and the fastest time wins the class or height division.

Dog agility is fast and exciting

Teaching methods and skill development are continually evolving and enthusiasts are now found around the world.

Organic Diatomaceous Earth Kills Bugs, Improves Health

The USDA studied diatomaceous earth from 1963-1970 and found it more effective than malathion in protecting grain storage as a means of natural, poison-free insect control. The EPA approved and registered diatomaceous earth for use against indoor and outdoor crawling insects. Diatomaceous earth is a natural, non-chemical product consisting of broken up shells of tiny critters, called diatoms, which lived long ago and died in groups so massive that they are mined.

Diatomaceous earth appears to be a powder, but it is actually razor-sharp crystals to fleas.

Diatomaceous earth controls pests by physical, not chemical, action. It punctures an insect’s exoskeleton and absorbs its body fluids—thus posing no harm to warm-blooded life.

Pests cannot develop immunity to DE, as they do to most synthetic chemical treatments you purchase at the store. Perfectly safe for skin contact, diatomaceous earth, as well as borates, is a long-term residual organic insecticide treatment to protect you, your pets and livestock from fleas and ticks. Diatomaceous earth can be used almost anywhere around the home, yard or animal housing.

Rubbed lightly onto a dog, cat, gerbil or even bird it is very effective in the ridding of fleas, ticks, lice, and microscopic red mites that attack the legs of pet birds and other pests around the premises.

Diatomaceous earth powder will fall off where the animal sleeps, killing fleas in the bedding. You might want to reapply DE a few times, two or three days apart, until the fleas are gone. Apply again in a few weeks in case new eggs have hatched that survived the original powdering.

Diatomaceous earth has a remarkable repellency factor. When diatomaceous earth is present, insects tend to stay away: ants, roaches, silverfish, bedbugs, flies, fleas, box elder bugs, scorpions, crickets, ticks, and many other unwelcome pests.

The floors, carpet, furniture and closets.

Make a dust can by punching or drilling a bunch of holes in the base of a used dairy or food container. Make your own flea remedy by mixing 3 cups diatomaceous earth for every 1/2 cup of boric acid. Sprinkle the powder thoroughly but lightly over carpet, under beds and in closets. Use a safety mask to avoid inhaling the dust. Harmless when ingested, diatomaceous earth—just like any dust—should not be inhaled in large amounts by pets or people. Broom-sweep the granules deeply into the carpet fiber, and vacuum after two days.

Place a flea collar or moth ball crystals in the vacuum bag to kill any vacuumed fleas. In getting rid of fleas, it is important to vacuum all floors, carpets and furniture at least twice a week, even before you spot a flea. Physical removal of the eggs, larvae and adult insects is the safest way to keep flea populations under control. Pay special attention to high-traffic areas, and those places where your pet spends a lot of time.

Place towels where your pets lie and wash them every week in hot water. For bedbugs, dust the bed frame and mattress, under and around the bed, including cracks in the floor and where the wall meets the floor. For roaches, dust the floor and cupboards, corners and cracks, behind the stove, under the sink and sprinkle some DE in the garbage can. For ants, include window and door sills.

Note that the diatomaceous earth we are referencing is NOT the DE sold for pool filters. That DE is chemically treated and can be dangerous to humans and animals.

Diatomaceous earth can also be used as an organic wormer for parasite removal in both humans and animals.

Diatomaceous earth is 84% silicon dioxide (silica). Life cannot exist without silica. Silica is arguably one of the most important trace minerals for human health!

Diatomaceous earth contains over 14 trace minerals to improve animal health, a natural product that can be given orally or used topically. Feeding dogs and cats half teaspoon per day will kill internal parasites and worms naturally, without the use of chemicals.

Silica is responsible for depositing calcium and other minerals into the bones. It speeds up healing of fractures and reduces any scarring at the site of a fracture, can help slow the degenerative process of connective tissue, fights ulceration, fights decay of bones and teeth, and lessens inflammation.